Wild Mushroom Guide: Cooking with Ceps, Morels, Trompettes & Girolles

WILD MUSHROOMS

Wild and exotic mushrooms have been prized in cuisines around the world for centuries, valued for their unique flavours, textures, and nutritional benefits. From the earthy porcini to the delicate morel, both foraged and carefully cultivated fungi add depth and complexity to a wide range of dishes from the simple rustic to fine dining, making them a valuable ingredient in any chef's repertoire.

We stock a variety of mushrooms according to their season, including the finest ceps, girolles, chanterelles, trompette de la mort, hen of the woods and morels. Some have more than one season or are available all year around, but perhaps the most eagerly anticipated are those that make a fleeting appearance in the autumn, such as trompette de la mort, or morels in the spring.

Preparation

All our mushrooms are carefully quality checked by hand and are simple to prepare. Due to their extremely porous nature, mushrooms should have as little contact with water as possible. All mushrooms are best cleaned with a brush if possible, but ceps and morels can be quickly agitated in a bowl of ice cold water, removed and dried on kitchen paper or a j-cloth. Our ceps are also often sold cut in half to ensure they reach our customers in perfect condition. A chef’s tip is to make a cross hatch diamond pattern on the cut side of the ceps with a knife, to help them cook more evenly and absorb more flavour.

All other varieties including girolles, chanterelles and hen of the woods should be simply brushed and any tough stems trimmed before use. Morels should be carefully cleaned with a brush, as their honeycomb structure can trap dirt. Keep any trimmings, especially the tougher base of the hen of the woods for stock.

Ceps, also known as porcini mushrooms, are renowned for their rich, nutty flavor and meaty texture. These prized fungi are a cornerstone of Italian cuisine, often featured in risottos, pasta dishes, and soups. Their large, thick stems and broad caps are easily recognizable, ranging from light to dark brown. Ceps grow wild in forests, particularly under oak and pine trees, and are highly sought after by foragers. Their versatility in cooking and intense umami flavor make them a favorite among chefs and food enthusiasts worldwide.

Girolles, with their glorious golden colour and fruity aroma are excellent in sauces or sautéd, as are chanterelles (often somewhat confusingly also referred to as girolles).

Trompette de la Mort have an earthy flavour with subtle fruity notes. When cooked they have a chewy, yet tender texture and their trumpet like shape holds sauces well. They are especially good in creamy pasta sauces, or as a garnish for scrambled eggs and pair beautifully with poultry and game.

Hen of the woods have a rich earthy, umami flavour and a deep, almost beer like, aroma. Their feathery, layered structure becomes crispy when fried and can be served simply as a side dish with aromatics such as garlic and ginger, or widely used in asian-inspired dishes.

Morels, distinguished by their unique honeycomb-like structure, offer an intensely earthy and complex flavor profile with nutty undertones. These prized mushrooms are versatile in the kitchen, excelling in both traditional and innovative preparations. They shine when paired with rich cream sauces or used as a luxurious stuffing. Chefs often showcase morels as an elegant garnish for veal and poultry dishes, elevating them with a touch of woodland elegance. Their robust flavor and distinctive texture make them a coveted ingredient in creamy risottos and pasta dishes, adding depth and sophistication to each bite.

While there are many different uses for mushrooms - enhancing the flavours of meat, game and poultry, adding substance and a savoury flavour to plant based dishes or adding depth and earthiness to sauces, broths and hearty stews - they are perhaps at their very best when simply prepared.

Ganbara, the renowned San Sebastian restaurant in Spain serves their signature wild mushrooms simply sautéed, with a raw egg yolk nestled in the middle to add a creamy richness.

We like to make a simple fricassee with a little diced onion or shallot and garlic fried gently in butter, before adding handfuls of mushrooms in stages (ceps first, followed by the more delicate varieties) and allowing them to sauté. We add a splash of white wine, some chopped herbs and season before serving on sourdough, drizzled with the buttery juices or as a generous garnish for a simple risotto.

Stuffed Morels with Nduja

This dish perfectly combines the earthy richness of morel mushrooms with the spicy kick of nduja, all balanced by the fresh flavours of tomatoes and basil.

RECIPE